Pronounced miss-i-men, this flaky, buttery pancake can be found in different guises across North Africa and the Middle East. In Morocco, it is served with honey for breakfast, or found sizzling on hot plates in market stalls, stuffed with tomatoes or ground meat, like this version.

FOR THE DOUGH

300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

60g fine semolina flour

A pinch of salt

A pinch of sugar

¼ teaspoon dried yeast

200ml warm water

5 tablespoons olive oil – 2 for greasing and the rest for frying

FOR THE FILLING

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 red onion, finely chopped

½ red pepper, deseeded and finely chopped

200g minced beef

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tomato, finely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon paprika

1 tablespoon harissa

Juice of ¼ lemon

Sea salt

FOR THE HARISSA YOGURT

150g Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons harissa

1. For the dough, use a fork to mix together the flour, semolina, salt, sugar and yeast in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre. Add about three-quarters of the water, and combine to form a dough, adding more water a tiny amount at a time, until you get a soft dough that’s not too wet or sticky. Tip onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and shiny. Place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and leave for 20 minutes in a warm, dry place to prove.

2. Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a large pan over a high heat. Add the onion and pepper and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, then add the beef and stir-fry for another 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 1–2 minutes more. Now add the tomato, cumin, paprika, a good pinch of salt and a splash of water. Cook for 7–8 minutes, or until the tomato has broken down. Stir in the harissa paste and lemon juice. Transfer to a bowl and leave to cool.

3. Divide the risen dough into 6–8 equal pieces. Roll into balls and place, spaced well apart, on a lightly oiled baking tray. Cover and leave for 20 minutes.

4. Take one of the dough balls and place on another oiled baking tray. Turning the dough as you go, use your hands to spread it out into a circle. Flip it over so both sides are well oiled and continue to push out until it forms a thin disc, about 15cm in diameter. Spread a few tablespoons of the cooked mince down the centre, leaving space at the top and bottom. Fold in the sides and gently push down to seal. Now fold in the bottom and top edges, so that you have a square shape. Gently press down with your hands, turning as you go, until the square doubles in size. Repeat with the rest of the dough and filling.

5. Mix together the ingredients for the harissa yogurt and add some salt, then heat a tablespoon of the oil in a non-stick frying pan over a high heat and cook the msemen, two at a time, for about a minute each side, or until golden and crispy. Place on kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. Slice in half and serve immediately with the yogurt.

Sizzling Souk Kebabs :

Brochettes, as these are known in Morocco, are extremely popular. They can be found all year round in the souks, but they are especially common during the festival of Eid Al Adha, when the best cut of the lamb is saved to make these succulent skewers. Ideally you want to buy lean and tender meat from a young lamb, around one to one and a half years old. To keep it juicy with an incredibly intense flavour, little pieces of lamb fat are threaded in between the meat, to melt over it during cooking. You need to start preparing the lamb the day before, so plan ahead.

4 long skewers, soaked in cold water if wooden

600g lamb leg, cut into 2.5cm cubes

50–100g lamb fat, cut into small pieces

½ red onion, grated

A small handful of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon cumin, plus extra to serve

2 red onions, finely sliced

Juice of 1 lemon

Sea salt and freshly ground

black pepper

TO SERVE

2 tomatoes, sliced

Moroccan breads, or crusty rolls of your choice

1. Put the lamb and lamb fat into a mixing bowl and add the grated onion. Its pulpy consistency helps to flavour and tenderise the meat, and it will caramelise later on the barbecue. Add the parsley and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Heat the barbecue. Pour the olive oil over the meat and mix well. Thread onto skewers, alternating meat with a little fat. Once at room temperature, barbecue for 1–2 minutes each side, turning four times, seasoning each time with a pinch of cumin and a tiny pinch of salt, until beautifully golden and still a little pink in the middle. Transfer to a warm serving dish, cover with foil and rest for 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, put the sliced onions into a mixing bowl. Pour over the lemon juice and season with salt. Mix well and set aside to soften for 5–10 minutes.

add the grated onion. Its pulpy consistency helps to flavour and tenderise the meat, and it will caramelise later on the barbecue. Add the parsley and a good pinch of salt and pepper. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

3. Meanwhile, put the sliced onions into a mixing bowl. Pour over the lemon juice and season with salt. Mix well and set aside to soften for 5–10 minutes.

4. Serve the kebabs with the onions and tomatoes in bowls, as well as bread, harissa and more cumin, black pepper and salt for seasoning.

Fez Kefta Sandwich :

Fez has some of the best street food in Morocco, and as you weave your way through the narrow roads and winding alleyways, you discover more and more delicious snacks. This sandwich is a classic – minced meat cooked on a hot plate with onions, herbs and spices, and served with masses of chilli sauce in a soft, white roll. You can choose from lamb, beef or merguez sausage, or even have a meat feast and mix all three. It’s the ultimate speedy snack.

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ red onion, finely chopped

250g minced beef

1 clove garlic

1 tomato, finely chopped

2 tablespoons tomato purée

2 tablespoons chilli sauce, plus extra to serve

1 teaspoon baharat spice mix 55g pitted black olives, roughly chopped

A small handful of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 round Moroccan bread, cut into half moons, warmed, or crusty rolls of your choice

Lettuce, to serve

1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Add the onion and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes to soften, and then add the beef. Mix well and continue to stir-fry for 2–3 minutes until the meat is broken up and cooked.

2. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 10 seconds, until fragrant, then add the tomato and stir-fry for a minute to break it down.

3. Spoon in the tomato purée and add the chilli sauce, baharat and a good pinch of salt. Pour in 3–4 tablespoons of water to help mix everything together properly, and stir-fry for another 2–3 minutes to thicken. Add the olives and parsley and toss together into the beef.

4. Stuff the bread halves with lettuce and a generous helping of the beef. Top with more chilli sauce if you’re an addict like me, and serve immediately.

Night Stall Noodles & Ox Cheeks :

One night in Fez, I was buying ingredients in the souk, which, as always, was buzzing with life – children running about, bicycles weaving through the crowds, busy shoppers elbowing past – all aglow in the light of a thousand yellow bulbs. The stalls lining the street were overflowing with fresh produce and sizzling food. I couldn’t resist ducking into one little stall for a bite to eat. Two huge pots were steaming away, one containing several whole cows’ heads. The stallholder pulled off some meat and served it to me with steamed noodles.

Cumin and paprika were on the table for extra seasoning. It was super-simple, but tasted incredible. I will admit that finding a whole cow’s head and a steamer large enough to fit it is probably out of most people’s culinary range, so here I have just used ox cheeks for a more accessible, home kitchen-friendly version. For me, it still conjures up some of the magic and bustle of Fez by night.

2 x 500g ox cheeks

250g vermicelli rice noodles

20g butter

2 teaspoons ground cumin, plus extra for serving

2 teaspoons paprika, plus extra for serving

A small handful of finely

chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

1. Place a steamer over a medium–high heat, with enough water to last for about 4 hours. (You can always top up with more from the kettle if you need it.) Put the ox cheeks into the steamer. Cover and seal with tin foil and cling film. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and steam for 3½–4 hours, or until you can pull the meat apart with a fork. Set aside to rest on a warm dish, covered.

2. Put the noodles into the water and cook for 8–10 minutes or until soft. Drain and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the butter, season and toss together.

3. To serve, put the noodles in a serving dish. Discard any fat from the ox cheeks and fork apart the meat. Season with salt, cumin and paprika. Add to the dish with the noodles. Sprinkle over a little more cumin and paprika, and add the parsley. Serve immediately.