Although we don’t think of pine nuts when we think of Mexican cooking, they are definitely part of the culinary landscape (used most often in sweets). But they are one of my favorite ingredients, and they work very well for thickening moles. (You can use other nuts, such as peanuts, almonds, or walnuts, but give the pine nuts a try first.) The other ingredients that define this mole are ancho chiles, tomatoes, and orange juice, all blended together and cooked down to a thick, rich sauce that marries beautifully with the mushroom and asparagus filling.
The tortillas are dipped into the luscious mole and wrapped around the filling of seared mushrooms and crisp-tender asparagus seasoned with orange zest and thyme, and goat cheese, which melts when the enchiladas are topped with the hot mole sauce. When you have vegetarians coming over for dinner, this dish is a must.
For the pine nut mole :
- ¼ cup olive oil
- ¼ cup chopped white onion
- 1 cup raw pine nuts
- 1 garlic clove, chopped
- 1 pound ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
- 2 ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and coarsely chopped or broken into pieces
- ½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
- 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth, homemade or store-bought
- ½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt or to taste
- ¼ teaspoon packed brown sugar or to taste
- For the filling :
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 pound white button or baby bella (cremini) mushrooms, cleaned and diced
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 pound asparagus, tough ends removed, peeled from just below the tips to the bottom, and cut into 1-inch pieces
- 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried
- 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
- ½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 12 corn tortillas
- 6 ounces goat cheese, cut into chunks (about ¾ cup)
- 2 tablespoons chopped chives, for garnish
- 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted, for garnish
1. To make the mole: Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large casserole or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until completely softened. Stir in the pine nuts and garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the garlic becomes fragrant and changes color and the pine nuts are light brown and smell toasty. Raise the heat to medium-high, add another tablespoon of olive oil and the tomatoes, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes soften and break down, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the ancho chiles, orange juice, broth, salt, and brown sugar and bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chiles have rehydrated and plumped up and the sauce has thickened, about 8 minutes more.
2. Transfer the contents of the pot to a blender and let cool for a few minutes, then puree, in batches if necessary, until completely smooth.
3. Rinse out and dry the pot, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and heat over medium heat. Add the pine nut mole, cover partially, and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has darkened and thickened a bit more. Cover and set aside.
4. To make the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet or casserole over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and let them sear and brown, without stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes. Push the mushrooms to the sides of the pan and add the butter to the middle. When the butter begins to foam, add the asparagus, thyme, orange zest, salt, and pepper to taste, stir together with the mushrooms, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus is crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.
6. Dip a tortilla in the mole, place it on a plate, and top with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the mushroom and asparagus mixture and a tablespoon of crumbled goat cheese. Roll up into a chubby enchilada and place seam side down on a serving platter. Continue with the remaining tortillas and filling.
These are my kids’ favorite enchiladas. Quite a few years ago we took a weeklong ride on the Chepe train along the Copper Canyon route, which goes from Chihuahua to Los Mochis, in the northern state of Sinaloa near the Baja, California, Gulf. We stopped in a quaint small town called El Fuerte, where we stayed at a charming hotel called Posada del Hidalgo. It was there that I ate one of the most delicious entomatadas I have ever tried. Entomatadas are enchiladas in which the tortillas are bathed in a rich tomato base. These entomatadas were rich and creamy: I could have eaten the sauce like a soup. With this recipe, I tried to conjure up what the cook told me about this dish, but I also added some elements, including the shrimp filling and nutmeg, a distinctive touch.
- 1½ pounds medium shrimp
- 5 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
- 2 garlic cloves
- 3 or 4 bay leaves
- Kosher or sea salt
- 1½ pounds ripe tomatoes
- 1 or 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, stemmed, to taste
- 4 scallions (white and light green parts only), coarsely chopped
- ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 3 tablespoons canola or safflower oil
- 1 cup Mexican crema or heavy cream, plus a bit more for garnish
- 12 corn tortillas
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- For garnish
- 4 scallions (white and light green parts only), thinly sliced
- 1 ripe Hass avocado, halved, pitted, flesh scooped out and sliced
- 2 ounces queso fresco, farmer’s cheese, or mild feta, crumbled (about ½ cup)
1. Remove the shells and tails from the shrimp and reserve. Rinse the shrimp and pat dry. Cut each one into 3 or 4 bite-size pieces.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine the shrimp shells and tails, parsley, 1 of the garlic cloves, the bay leaves, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover with water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the broth into a large measuring cup or heatproof bowl.
3. Combine the tomatoes, the remaining garlic clove, and chile(s) in a medium saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the tomatoes are thoroughly soft, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to a blender. Add the chopped scallions. If you simmered 2 chiles, add only 1 of them to the blender; when you taste the finished puree, you can decide if you want to add the other. Add ½ teaspoon salt, the nutmeg, and 1 cup of the shrimp broth and puree until completely smooth. Taste and add some or all of the other chile if you would like more chile presence and heat.
4. Rinse out and dry the saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to the pan and heat over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the tomato sauce, being careful to avoid splatters, cover partially, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and deepens in color to a much darker red, about 10 minutes. Uncover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and stir in the cream. Keep at a steady low simmer for 8 to 10 more minutes, until the sauce is thick and creamy and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Taste and adjust the salt. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
6. To cook the shrimp, work in batches so that they will sear, not steam: Heat 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over high heat until the butter is foaming. Add half the shrimp, season with salt, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring and flipping a few times, until just cooked through and lightly browned. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a large plate. Add the remaining tablespoon each of oil and butter to the skillet, and once the butter is foaming, add the remaining shrimp, season with salt, and cook in the same manner; transfer to the bowl.
7. Reheat the sauce if necessary. Glide one of the tortillas through the sauce and place on a plate. Place about 3 of the shrimp across the middle and fold in half, like a quesadilla. Place on a platter and continue with the remaining tortillas and shrimp, overlapping the enchiladas slightly.
If you are of my generation, my parents’ generation, or my grandparents’ generation and you are Mexican, you probably know and love the Swiss enchiladas from Sanborns. Established in Mexico City in 1903 by Walter Sanborn and his brother Frank, both California transplants, Sanborns began as a small general store/drugstore with the first-ever soda fountain in the country. As the years went by, it grew into a national branded institution, a department store with a full-blown cafeteria-style restaurant and locations all over Mexico. (The chain was eventually bought by Carlos Slim, one of the richest men in the world.)
They are a variation of salsa verde enchiladas filled with chicken, but with the generous addition of cream and melted cheese (suizas is often used to name Mexican dishes that include copious amounts of cream and cheese). These are exactly as I remember them from the days when I would beg my dad to take me to Sanborns. The enchiladas came three to a plate, and I used to cut each roll into six pieces and savor each piece as if it were the last.
- 1½ pounds tomatillos, husked, thoroughly rinsed, and quartered
- 2 garlic cloves
- ½ cup coarsely chopped white onion
- 1 to 2 serrano chiles, stemmed (seeded if desired), to taste
- 1½ cups coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or to taste
- ¼ cup water
- 1 tablespoon canola or safflower oil
- 1 cup chicken broth or vegetable broth, homemade or store-bought, or water
- 1 cup Mexican crema or heavy cream
- 12 corn tortillas
- 3 cups shredded cooked chicken, or use a rotisserie chicken
- 1 cup grated Monterey Jack, Mexican Chihuahua, or white cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)
1. In a blender, combine the tomatillos, garlic, onion, chiles (start with one and then add all or part of another one, if desired), cilantro, salt, and water and puree until completely smooth.
2. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the pureed tomatillo mixture, being careful, as it will sear and splutter, cover partially, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it thickens and darkens, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the broth or water, cover partially, and simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the cream. Set aside.
3. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
5. Pour about 1 cup of the salsa verde into a 9-x-13-inch baking dish. Place a tortilla on a plate or cutting board and arrange about ¼ cup of the chicken across the middle of it. Roll up into a soft, chubby enchilada and place seam down in the baking dish. Continue with the rest of the tortillas and chicken. Pour the rest of the salsa verde over the enchiladas and sprinkle the cheese on top.
6. Bake the enchiladas for 10 to 15 minutes, until the cheese has completely melted and begun to lightly brown. Serve.
Mole sauces come in many colors. There seems to be a different one for just about any occasion, each with not only a regional stamp, but a family stamp as well. This is my version of mole verde, green mole.
Mole verde, in any of its interpretations, is not as well known outside of Mexico as mole poblano, the almost-black sauce that boasts chocolate as one of its ingredients. But I am a big fan of mole verde, made with pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, green chiles, green herbs like cilantro, and lettuce; it’s much lighter than other moles, amazingly herbal and fresh tasting.
I love using this mole for enchiladas, which I stuff with diced roasted pork tenderloin that has been rubbed with sage and garlic and garnish with pungent red radishes tossed with lime juice and olive oil. You can use the sauce in other ways too, such as for dressing roasted baby potatoes or shredded cooked chicken or for poaching fish (right in the sauce).
- For the pork tenderloin
- 2 pounds pork tenderloin (1 large or 2 smaller tenderloins)
- 5 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
- 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage or 1 tablespoon dried
- 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 cups water
- For the mole verde
- 1 pound tomatillos, husked and thoroughly rinsed
- 2 garlic cloves
- 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles or to taste
- ¾ cup hulled raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
- ½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt or to taste
- ½ cup coarsely chopped white onion
- 3 romaine lettuce leaves, torn into pieces
- 1½ cups fresh cilantro leaves and upper part of stems
- 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and upper part of stems
- 2 tablespoons canola or safflower oil
- 1½ cups meat juices from the cooked tenderloin or substitute chicken broth, homemade or store-bought, or water
- 10 to 12 good-size radishes, trimmed and cut into matchsticks (2 cups)
- 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- ¾ teaspoon kosher or sea salt or to taste
- 12 corn tortillas
1. To prepare the meat: Using a sharp knife, make an approximately ¼-inch-deep slit down the length of the tenderloin(s), from one end to the other.
2. In a small bowl, mix the garlic, sage, salt, pepper, and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Spread the seasoning paste all over the meat, including inside the slit. Tie the meat with kitchen twine, or if you have two 1-pound pork tenderloin pieces, tie them together, one on top of the other: Cut a long length of kitchen twine and wrap it around the meat at one end, about 1 inch from the end. Tie a knot, leaving two long ends, and crisscross the remaining string over and around the meat down its length. Wrap the string around one more time at the other end and tie another knot. Although no marinating time is necessary, you can cover the tenderloin and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
3. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
4. Heat a large ovenproof casserole or a deep 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the tenderloin and brown on all sides, about 6 minutes.
5. If you used a skillet to brown the meat, transfer the meat to an ovenproof casserole or baking dish. Add the water to the casserole and roast the pork for 30 minutes. The internal temperature of the meat should be between 150 and 160 degrees. Place the meat on a cutting board, cover with aluminum foil to keep warm, and pour the meat juices into a measuring cup.
6. Meanwhile, to make the mole: Combine the tomatillos, garlic, and chiles in a medium saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Simmer for 10 to 12 minutes, until everything is completely cooked through and soft, and the color of the tomatillos has changed to olive green.
7. Place a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast, stirring often, until you hear popping sounds (like popcorn) and the seeds begin to brown lightly, 3 to 4 minutes; take care not to burn them. Immediately transfer to a bowl or plate and set aside.
8. Drain the tomatillos, garlic, and chiles and place in a blender (add 1 chile at first). Add the salt and puree until smooth. Add the toasted pump-kin seeds, onion, lettuce, cilantro, and parsley and puree until completely smooth. Taste and blend in some or all of the other chile, if desired.
9. Heat the canola or safflower oil in a casserole or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the puree and stir well, being careful, as this sauce really likes to jump around; use the lid as a shield. Stir in the 1½ cups reserved meat juices or the broth or water, bring to a simmer, cover partially, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until thickened. Stir the sauce every 4 to 5 minutes to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pot; if the sauce appears to be cooking too fast and sticking, reduce the heat to low. The sauce should coat the back of a wooden spoon heavily. Taste and adjust the salt. Turn off the heat and cover to keep warm.
10. In a small bowl, combine the radishes with the lime juice, olive oil, and salt. Mix well. The more time you give them to macerate, the better the radishes will taste.
11. Dice or coarsely chop the cooked pork. If the meat is cold, you can place it back in the casserole after you dice it, along with any remaining meat juices, and heat through over low heat.
13. If necessary, reheat the mole verde. Dip a tortilla into the mole and place on a plate. Place about ¼ cup of the diced meat across the middle and roll into a chubby enchilada. Place seam side down on a serving platter. Continue with the rest of the tortillas and meat.
14. Pour the remaining mole verde on top of the enchiladas, garnish with the marinated radishes, and serve.
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