Italians
consider grocery shopping an integral part of the cooking process and buy
perishables like fish, meat, cheese, and produce nearly every day, relying on a
limited but essential store of pantry goods to round out their meals. While few
of us have the luxury of time to shop that often, it still makes sense to keep
some flavor enhancers on hand to avoid last-minute dashes to the gourmet food
store when you’re ready to cook.
We’ve
come a long way since the days when you had to hunt for sun-dried tomatoes and
the only grated Italian cheese stocked in most grocery stores came in a green
shaker-top canister. Ingredients that were once considered exotic are now
readily available, and in most well-stocked markets, you’ll have your pick of
good-quality extra-virgin olive oils, imported pastas, rustic country breads,
and other Italian staples. For that reason, and because I know how annoying it
is to get ready to make a recipe only to discover you’re missing a key
ingredient, I’ve kept specialty foods to a minimum in the recipes that follow,
and when possible, I’ve suggested substitutions for ingredients that might not
be as easy to get your hands on.
Nonetheless,
there is a small handful of products I would hate to cook without, and I find
the extra effort needed to track them down online or at a specialty food store
saves me time in the long run, because they offer so much big, authentic flavor
that you really can’t duplicate any other way. Here is my short-and-sweet
pantry list.
CALABRIAN
CHILE PASTE: If you pick only one thing to buy
from this list, make it this one. I throw this blend of crushed dried chiles and
extra-virgin olive oil into everything, from pasta sauces and stews to salad
dressings for a bit of mellow heat. It’s usually found online or in a specialty
store, but it’s well worth seeking out; one jar will last you a long time.
Crushed red pepper flakes can be substituted.
PARMESAN CHEESE RINDS: This invaluable flavoring element adds depth to soups, stews, and
stocks. Save your rinds or look for containers of rinds if your market has a
good-size cheese department and sells a lot of grated cheese.
FINOCCHIONA: A type of salami common in Tuscany that is flavored with fennel.
It can be replaced with regular salami. Store in the refrigerator as you would
any sliced meat.
TUNA AND ANCHOVIES: Choose the oil-packed Italian type in jars for the best flavor.
CASTELVETRANO OLIVES: A bright green olive from Sicily with a buttery flavor that is
more sweet than briny. Substitute any mild-flavored olive.
CHEESES: Aside from a really good Parmigiano-Reggiano for grating, you
won’t have to look far for the cheeses used in this book, but there are a
couple that might be new to you: ciliegine and burrata.
These mild cheeses—both related to mozzarella—are a visual upgrade from the
standard 8-ounce ball you’d slice for a caprese salad. Ciliegine takes its name
from little cherries, and these balls are about one-quarter the size of
bocconcini, which can be substituted for them. Soft, delicate burrata has an
oozy, creamy interior that makes it extra delicious smeared on a crostini or
tossed with hot pasta. Smoked scamorza is a bit firmer and drier than smoked
mozzarella, which can be used in its place and has a similar dusky smoked
flavor.
SPECK: Like prosciutto, speck is a cured ham, the main difference being
that speck is lightly smoked and prosciutto is not. They can be used
interchangeably.
There are other pantry items you will encounter throughout this
book that are more easily found and are always smart to have on hand: a good
olive oil for cooking, plus an extra-virgin oil for drizzling and using in
recipes that are not subjected to heat, like dressings, salads, and crostini;
balsamic vinegar (both red and white); long and short pastas (cock’s
comb–shaped creste di gallo is a current favorite);
pearled farro; jarred roasted peppers, preferably the smaller, sweeter piquillo
peppers; smoked paprika (both dolce and picante); quick-cooking polenta; pink
peppercorns; flake salt such as Maldon; and, of course, mascarpone cheese.
potato crisps with goat cheese and olives :
These are a fun twist on a crostini, and everyone is always
impressed when I make potato chips from scratch, even though it’s actually
super easy. The trick is to use a mandoline to get uniform and ultrathin
slices. If you’re not up for frying, just spread the cheese and tapenade on
small rounds of toasted bread.
FOR THE CRISPS
1 to 2 cups vegetable oil
3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes
Freshly ground black pepper
FOR
THE CHEESE
¼ cup fresh goat cheese, at room
temperature
¼ cup mascarpone cheese, at room
temperature
½ teaspoon grated orange zest (from
½ orange)
FOR THE OLIVE SPREAD
½ cup pitted Castelvetrano olives
½ cup pitted kalamata olives
1 tablespoon capers, drained and
rinsed
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil
MAKE THE CRISPS: Heat ½ inch of vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over medium
heat. Slice the potatoes ⅛ inch thick using a mandoline. When the oil reaches
350°F on a deep-fry thermometer, add a small handful of sliced potatoes to the
oil (you’ll need to cook them in batches, as overcrowding the pan will cause
the chips to curl). Fry each batch about 4 minutes, or until the potatoes are
crispy and golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, remove the
potatoes to a paper towel–lined tray and drain well. Season with a few grinds
of black pepper. Continue with the remaining potatoes.
MAKE THE CHEESE: Use a rubber spatula to mix together the goat cheese, mascarpone,
and orange zest until smooth and well combined. Set aside at room temperature.
MAKE THE OLIVE SPREAD: Place the Castelvetranos, kalamatas, capers, and rosemary in the
bowl of a food processor. Pulse to chop finely. Add the olive oil and blend
until the mixture is very finely chopped; it should still have a little texture
but be cohesive.
TO ASSEMBLE, place a dollop of the cheese spread on a chip and top with a
spoonful of the olive spread.
grilled artichokes with anchovy mayonnaise :
When it’s artichoke season, there’s no better way to
serve them than grilled on a stovetop grill pan, as here, or outdoors. Whether
plated as a first course or offered at a casual buffet, they look fancy but,
honestly, are just so easy to prepare. Mustard and anchovy paste make this mayo
slightly spicy and tangy and perfectly salty.
FOR THE ARTICHOKES
2 artichokes
1 cup dry white wine
3 fresh rosemary sprigs
1 bay leaf
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 lemon, halved
1 tablespoon olive oil
FOR
THE ANCHOVY MAYONNAISE
½ cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled
½ teaspoon anchovy paste
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
PREPARE THE ARTICHOKES: Trim the artichokes by slicing off the stems and the top quarter
of each artichoke. Break off and discard the tough outer leaves, peel the
bases, and use scissors to snip off any sharp leaf tips. Halve the trimmed
artichokes vertically and use a small spoon to scoop out the furry choke from
the center of each.
In a medium Dutch oven, combine the
white wine, rosemary, bay leaf, and ½ teaspoon of the salt with 1 cup of water.
Squeeze the juice from each lemon half into the pot and add the lemon halves as
well. Place the artichokes in the pot, cut-side down. Cover the pot and bring
the liquid to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to maintain
a gentle simmer. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the tip of a paring knife
easily pierces the thickest part of the artichoke. Drain the artichokes on a
wire rack.
PREPARE THE MAYONNAISE: In the bowl of a food processor, combine the mayonnaise, garlic,
anchovy paste, mustard, and olive oil. Puree until smooth. Add the mint and
pulse to combine. Let the flavors marry for 15 minutes or so.
Preheat a grill pan over
medium-high heat.
Drizzle the artichokes with the
olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Grill the
artichokes, cut-side down, for about 4 minutes, or until nicely browned on the
cut side. Turn and grill for another 2 minutes, pressing down gently to ensure
a little browning. Serve with the anchovy mayonnaise for dipping.
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